Pajama Teddy Bear Amigurumi Crochet Pattern – Low-Sew Bear Tutorial
Pajama Teddy Bear Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
This part of the pattern includes:
Arms
Legs
Tail
Body
Joining the legs
Joining the tail
Joining the arms
Beginning the neck/head
The bear is designed as a low-sew amigurumi project. The legs, tail, and arms are crocheted directly into the body. Only the muzzle and ears need to be sewn on later.
Finished Size
Approximately 27–30 cm (10.5–12 in) tall.
The exact size will depend on your yarn, crochet hook, and tension.
The tutorial sample made with a 3.5 mm hook was slightly smaller, while the sample made with a 4 mm hook was slightly larger.
Materials
Brown yarn for the bear
Pajama-color yarn — mint, blue, or another color of your choice
Small amount of cream, white, or light brown yarn for the feet/muzzle
Small amount of black yarn or thread for eyelashes and eyebrows
Fiberfill stuffing
16 mm safety eyes
15 mm safety nose
18 mm may be used for a larger nose
Crochet hook suitable for your yarn
Tutorial sample: 4 mm
Stitch marker
Yarn needle
Scissors
Chopstick or stuffing tool
A crochet hook approximately 2 mm larger than your main hook will later be needed for the night cap.
Abbreviations — US Crochet Terms
MR – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase: 2 sc in the same stitch
dec – decrease
BLO – back loop only
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
FO – fasten off
Rnd – round
rep – repeat
Unless otherwise stated, work in continuous rounds.
The tutorial uses invisible decreases, made through the front loops of the next 2 stitches.
ARMS
Make 2.
Start with brown yarn.
Round 1
6 sc in MR.
6 sts
Pull the magic ring closed.
Round 2
Inc in every stitch around.
12 sts
Place a stitch marker.
Rounds 3–4
Sc around.
12 sts
Round 5
4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc.
10 sts
Round 6
4 sc, dec, 4 sc.
9 sts
Do not completely finish the final stitch.
Change to the pajama-color yarn.
Leave approximately 1 meter of the brown yarn before cutting it. This tail will later be used to crochet the decorative edging around the sleeve.
Finish the last stitch with the pajama color.
Tie or secure the color change and cut the working brown yarn.
PAJAMA SECTION OF THE ARM
Work the next 5 rounds with 9 sc each.
On the first round after the color change:
Work the first stitch through the BLO
Work all remaining stitches through both loops
This helps make the color transition smoother.
Next 5 Rounds
9 sc around.
9 sts
Stuff the lower part of the arm.
A chopstick or similar blunt tool is useful for stuffing narrow pieces.
Continue stuffing lightly, but do not stuff the final 3 rounds of the arm.
The upper part should remain flat enough to attach easily to the body.
ALIGNING AND CLOSING THE ARM
Because crochet stitches naturally spiral, you may need to make a few additional sc stitches before closing the arm.
These are referred to in the tutorial as shifting stitches.
Add enough shifting stitches so the arm faces in the direction you want.
You may position the paws:
Straight forward, or
Slightly turned inward
The exact number of shifting stitches may differ between the two arms.
Fold the arm flat.
Crochet through both layers:
4 sc
FO and cut the pajama-color yarn.
ARM CUFF EDGING
Return to the long brown yarn tail left at the color change.
Insert the hook diagonally around the edge of the pajama section.
Work approximately:
10 loose sc around the sleeve edge
Then work:
1 sl st
FO.
Hide the yarn tail inside the arm.
Make the second arm in the same way.
Set both arms aside.
LEGS
Make 2.
Start with cream, white, or light brown yarn.
Round 1
8 sc in MR.
8 sts
Pull the ring closed.
Round 2
Inc in every stitch around.
16 sts
Place a stitch marker.
Round 3
(3 sc, inc) × 4.
20 sts
Do not completely finish the final stitch.
Change to brown yarn.
Secure the color change and cut the cream yarn.
Round 4
BLO: sc around.
20 sts
Work the final stitch of the round through both loops.
Rounds 5–7
Sc around.
20 sts for 3 rounds
Round 8
4 sc, 6 dec, 4 sc.
14 sts
Round 9
6 sc, dec, 6 sc.
13 sts
Do not completely finish the final stitch.
Change to the pajama-color yarn.
Cut the brown yarn.
PAJAMA SECTION OF THE LEG
Stuff the foot and lower leg.
Work the next 5 rounds with 13 sc each.
On the first stitch after the color change:
Work the first stitch through the BLO, then work all remaining stitches normally through both loops.
Next 5 Rounds
13 sc around.
13 sts
Continue stuffing the leg, but leave the upper portion unstuffed.
The tutorial recommends stopping the stuffing approximately a few rounds below the top so the leg remains easy to attach.
ALIGNING AND CLOSING THE LEG
As with the arms, work additional shifting stitches if needed.
Look at the foot and decide whether you want it to point:
Straight forward, or
Slightly inward
Use as many shifting stitches as necessary to achieve the desired position.
The two legs do not necessarily need exactly the same number of shifting stitches.
Fold the leg flat.
Crochet through both halves:
6 sc
FO.
LEG CUFF EDGING
The edging can be made using the pajama color, white, cream, or another contrasting yarn.
Join the edging yarn at the back of the leg.
Insert the hook diagonally around the color-change edge.
Work loosely:
13 sc around
Then work:
1 sl st
FO.
Hide both yarn tails inside the leg.
Make the second leg the same way.
TAIL
The tail must be made before the body because it will be crocheted directly into the body later.
Use brown yarn.
Round 1
6 sc in MR.
6 sts
Round 2
Inc in every stitch around.
12 sts
Round 3
(sc, dec) × 4.
8 sts
Work 1 sl st.
FO.
Do not stuff the tail.
Hide the starting yarn tail inside.
Set the tail aside.
BODY
Use the pajama-color yarn.
Round 1
8 sc in MR.
8 sts
Round 2
Inc in every stitch around.
16 sts
Place a stitch marker.
Round 3
(sc, inc) × 8.
24 sts
Round 4
(2 sc, inc) × 8.
32 sts
Round 5
(3 sc, inc) × 8.
40 sts
Round 6
(4 sc, inc) × 8.
48 sts
Round 7
Sc around.
48 sts
JOINING THE LEGS
The legs are joined directly into the next body round.
Check the orientation of both feet before attaching them.
If you made the feet turn inward, make sure you have correctly identified the left and right legs.
Round 8
Place the first leg against the body.
Crochet through both the leg and the corresponding body stitches:
6 sc through leg + body
Continue on the body:
18 sc
Attach the second leg:
6 sc through leg + body
Continue:
7 sc
You will now be at the back of the bear.
Attach the tail next.
JOINING THE TAIL
Flatten the unstuffed tail.
The tail has 8 stitches around, so when folded there are 4 pairs of stitches.
Crochet through:
Both layers of the tail
The corresponding body stitch
Work:
4 sc through tail + body
Continue around the body:
7 sc
The round is complete.
48 sts
The legs and tail are now incorporated directly into the body.
BODY — CONTINUED
Rounds 9–14
Sc around.
48 sts for 6 rounds
Round 15
(6 sc, dec) × 6.
42 sts
Rounds 16–17
Sc around.
42 sts
Round 18
(5 sc, dec) × 6.
36 sts
Round 19
(4 sc, dec) × 6.
30 sts
Round 20
(3 sc, dec) × 6.
24 sts
STUFFING THE BODY
Before attaching the arms, stuff the body.
For a rounded shape, distribute the stuffing toward the sides first, then fill the center.
Stuff firmly but evenly.
POSITIONING THE ARMS
Each arm will be attached across 4 body stitches.
Fold the body in half to identify the side positions.
Find 4 stitches on each side where the arms should sit.
Because crochet stitches spiral, you may need to work 1–3 additional shifting sc stitches before beginning the arm attachment.
The exact number depends on your tension and the position of your round marker.
Once the correct starting position is reached, move the stitch marker to this point.
This becomes the new beginning of the round.
Check that the arms are oriented correctly before attaching them.
21 — JOINING THE ARMS
Attach the first arm by crocheting through both the arm and body:
4 sc through arm + body
Then:
8 sc
Attach the second arm:
4 sc through arm + body
Then:
8 sc
24 sts
The arms are now crocheted directly into the body.
Round 22
(2 sc, dec) × 6.
18 sts
Do not completely finish the final decrease.
Change from the pajama-color yarn to brown.
Cut the pajama yarn and join the brown yarn.
NECK / BEGINNING OF HEAD
Next Round
BLO: sc around.
18 sts
Work the final stitch through both loops.
Next Round
Sc around normally.
18 sts
Add more stuffing to the upper body as needed.
Do not cut the brown yarn.
The head will be crocheted directly from these 18 stitches using the same yarn.
This completes Part 1 of the Pajama Teddy Bear pattern.
Continue directly to Part 2 to crochet the head, muzzle, ears, facial details, and night cap.
Pajama Teddy Bear Crochet Pattern
This pattern covers the head, muzzle, ears, facial shaping and embroidery, ear attachment, and night cap from Part 2 of the tutorial.
Important: This tutorial begins by continuing the head from Part 1. Before starting Head Round 1 below, you should already have 18 stitches from the previous section.
Abbreviations — US Terms
MR – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
inc – increase: work 2 sc in the same stitch
dec – decrease: crochet 2 stitches together
sl st – slip stitch
FLO – front loop only
st(s) – stitch(es)
FO – fasten off
R – round
rep – repeat
Unless otherwise stated, work in continuous rounds and use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
HEAD
Continue working from the 18 stitches made in Part 1.
Round 1
Inc in every stitch around.
18 inc (36 sts)
Round 2
(5 sc, inc) × 6.
42 sts
Round 3
(6 sc, inc) × 6.
48 sts
Rounds 4–10
Sc in every stitch around.
48 sc for 7 rounds
Round 11
(4 sc, dec) × 8.
40 sts
Rounds 12–16
Sc in every stitch around.
40 sc for 5 rounds
Round 17
(6 sc, dec) × 5.
35 sts
Do not finish the head yet. This is the point where the eyes are positioned.
ADDING THE EYES
Stuff the neck area very firmly before placing the eyes. A chopstick or similar blunt tool can help push the stuffing securely into the neck.
Add stuffing to the lower portion of the head as well. This will make it easier to judge the correct eye placement.
Insert the safety eyes between Head Rounds 12 and 13.
Leave approximately 8 stitches between the eye openings.
Check the placement from the front and sides before securing the eyes. The eyes should be equally spaced from the center of the face.
You can also fold the head gently in half to compare the number of stitches on either side and make sure the eyes are symmetrical.
Secure the safety eyes according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Safety note: The original tutorial demonstrates melting and flattening the stems of the safety eyes. Only use a heat-based method if the manufacturer specifically states that it is safe for those eyes. Otherwise, use the supplied safety-eye washers.
Add more stuffing after the eyes are secure.
FINISHING THE HEAD
Round 18
(3 sc, dec) × 7.
28 sts
Round 19
(2 sc, dec) × 7.
21 sts
Add more stuffing as needed.
Round 20
(sc, dec) × 7.
14 sts
Add the final amount of stuffing, shaping the head firmly and evenly.
Round 21
Dec × 7.
7 sts
Cut the yarn, leaving a longer tail, and fasten off.
Thread the tail onto a yarn needle.
Pass the needle through the front loop only of each of the remaining 7 stitches.
Pull firmly to close the opening.
Secure the yarn with a few small stitches and hide the tail inside the head.
Remove the stitch marker.
If necessary, use a smaller crochet hook to gently redistribute the stuffing and refine the shape of the head.
MUZZLE
Use the cream, milk-colored, or muzzle-colored yarn.
Foundation
Ch 4.
Work around both sides of the foundation chain to create an oval.
Round 1
Starting in the second ch from the hook:
sc in next 2 ch
3 sc in last ch
Rotate the work and continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain:
sc in next ch
inc in last ch
8 sts
Round 2
Work:
inc
sc
3 inc
sc
2 inc
14 sts
The wording of this round is slightly unclear in the transcript, but this arrangement is consistent with the stitch sequence and the 20-stitch count reached in the following round.
Round 3
Work:
sc
inc
sc
(sc, inc) × 3
sc
(sc, inc) × 2
20 sts
Round 4
Sc in every stitch around.
20 sts
To create a smoother ending, work 3 sl sts.
FO.
Leave a long yarn tail if you plan to use the same yarn to sew the muzzle onto the head.
ADDING THE NOSE
Position the nose in the center of the muzzle, approximately between Muzzle Rounds 2 and 3.
Secure it before sewing the muzzle onto the head.
EARS
Make 2 identical ears using brown yarn.
Foundation
Ch 4.
Round 1
Starting in the second ch from the hook:
sc in next 2 ch
3 sc in the last ch
Rotate and work along the opposite side:
sc in next ch
inc in the final ch
8 sts
Round 2
Work:
inc
sc
3 inc
sc
2 inc
14 sts
Round 3
Sc around.
14 sts
Round 4
Sc around.
14 sts
Work 1 additional sc if necessary to bring the working yarn into the correct position for closing.
Fold the ear in half.
Crochet through both layers:
7 sc
FO.
Leave a long tail if you want to use the crochet yarn for sewing.
Make the second ear in exactly the same way.
FACE SHAPING
The tutorial uses strong sewing thread held in several strands to sculpt the face.
First Tightening — Creating the Cheeks
Insert the needle near the center at the junction between the neck and head, approximately between Head Rounds 1 and 2.
Bring the needle out beneath the inner corner of one eye.
Move approximately 2–3 stitches and insert the needle again, bringing it out near the lower outer corner of that eye.
Pass back toward the inner eye corner.
Repeat the same shaping sequence around the second eye.
Bring the thread back near the original insertion point.
Pull both thread ends gradually and evenly until the cheeks become defined.
Tie the ends securely.
Do not overtighten, as this can distort the head.
Second Tightening
Insert the needle at the lower starting point.
Bring it out at the inner corner of the left eye.
Pass to the inner corner of the right eye.
Return the needle to the original lower point.
Pull gently until the desired shaping is achieved.
Knot securely and hide the thread ends inside the head.
SEWING ON THE MUZZLE
Place the muzzle on the lower front portion of the head.
Do not stuff the muzzle.
The transcript suggests positioning its lower edge approximately around Head Rounds 3–4 or 4–5, depending on the proportions of your bear.
Center the muzzle carefully.
Use several pins to secure it evenly.
Using sewing thread or the long yarn tail, sew around the entire perimeter.
For a neat seam:
Take one small stitch through the edge of the muzzle.
Take the next small stitch through the head.
Continue alternating between the muzzle and head.
Remove the pins as you sew.
Continue slightly past your starting point, secure the thread, and hide the ends inside the head.
EMBROIDERING THE FACE
Use black yarn or embroidery thread.
The tutorial uses black cotton/acrylic yarn for these details.
Eyelashes
Bring the yarn out close to the upper inner corner of one eye.
Create a short eyelash stitch extending outward.
Repeat on the second eye, making the placement as symmetrical as possible.
Eyebrows
Embroider one eyebrow above each eye.
Check the face from the front frequently so both eyebrows have approximately the same length, angle, and height.
Mouth Line
Bring the yarn out near the nose.
Lay the yarn around or directly beneath the nose as demonstrated, then secure it.
Create a straight vertical line from the center of the nose downward onto the cream muzzle.
Bring the needle out elsewhere on the head.
Secure the yarn, make a knot, and hide the end inside the head.
SEWING ON THE EARS
Before sewing, mark both ear positions with pins.
From each eye, count approximately 6–7 stitches toward the back of the head.
Place the first positioning pin.
This lower attachment point should sit slightly above the middle of the eye, approximately level with its upper edge.
From that point, count approximately 5–6 stitches upward and place a second pin.
Offset the attachment slightly by about 1 stitch so the ear sits at a gentle angle rather than completely straight.
Repeat the same positioning on the opposite side.
Look at the head from above and make sure both ears are equally distant from the center.
Sew each ear securely to the head, taking:
one small stitch through the ear
one small stitch through the head
Pay special attention to securing both corners of each ear.
Work a few reinforcing stitches back in the opposite direction before finishing.
Secure and hide all thread ends inside the head.
NIGHT CAP
The night cap begins with a small white pom-pom and continues into the main cap color.
Use the same hook used for the bear for the pom-pom and first section of the cap.
The tutorial uses a 4 mm hook as its example.
Later, switch to a hook approximately 2 mm larger.
Examples given in the tutorial:
3.5 mm → 5.5 mm
4 mm → 6 mm
4.5 mm → 6.5 mm
Pom-Pom
Use white yarn.
Round 1
6 sc in MR.
6 sts
Pull the ring closed.
Round 2
Inc × 6.
12 sts
Round 3
Sc around.
12 sts
Round 4
Dec × 6.
6 sts
Add a small amount of stuffing.
Cut the white yarn and change to the main cap color.
Hide the yarn ends inside the pom-pom.
Round 5
Using the main cap color and the original hook:
Sc around.
6 sts
Now switch to the crochet hook that is approximately 2 mm larger.
CAP BODY
Round 6
(sc, inc) × 3.
9 sts
Round 7
Sc around.
9 sts
Round 8
(2 sc, inc) × 3.
12 sts
Round 9
Sc around.
12 sts
Round 10
(3 sc, inc) × 3.
15 sts
Round 11
Sc around.
15 sts
Continue alternating an increase round with a plain round.
Round 12
(4 sc, inc) × 3.
18 sts
Round 13
Sc around.
18 sts
Round 14
(5 sc, inc) × 3.
21 sts
Round 15
Sc around.
21 sts
Round 16
(6 sc, inc) × 3.
24 sts
Round 17
Sc around.
24 sts
Round 18
(7 sc, inc) × 3.
27 sts
Round 19
Sc around.
27 sts
Round 20
(8 sc, inc) × 3.
30 sts
Round 21
Sc around.
30 sts
Round 22
(9 sc, inc) × 3.
33 sts
Rounds 23–27
Sc around.
33 sts for 5 rounds
EAR HOLES
Round 28
Work:
9 sc
ch 5
skip 5 sts
5 sc
ch 5
skip 5 sts
9 sc
This creates two openings for the bear's ears.
33 sts/chain spaces total
Round 29
Work:
9 sc
5 sc across the first ch-5 space
5 sc
5 sc across the second ch-5 space
9 sc
33 sts
Rounds 30–32
Sc around.
33 sts for 3 rounds
Work 1 sl st to create a smooth finish.
FO and weave in the yarn end.
FINISHING THE NIGHT CAP
Place the cap on the bear.
Carefully pull one ear through each opening.
Position the lower portion of the cap toward the back of the bear's head and arrange the long pointed section and pom-pom naturally.
Your pajama teddy bear from Part 2 is now complete.
